Trapping is an effective method of control. It is the preferred method in homes, garages, and other structures where only a few rats are present. Trapping has several advantages:
- it does not rely on inherently hazardous poisons;
- it permits the user to determine if the rat was killed and
- it allows for disposal of rat carcasses, thereby eliminating odour problems which may occur when poisoning is done within the buildings.
A simple, inexpensive wood-based snap trap is available in most hardware and farm supply stores. Wire cage traps are more expensive but somewhat more successful than snap traps.
Bait traps with peanut butter or a small piece of hot dog, bacon, or nutmeat tied securely to the trigger.
The trigger should be set lightly so that it will spring easily. Set traps close to walls, behind objects, in dark corners, and in places where rat activity is seen.
Place the traps so that rats, following their natural course of travel (usually close to a wall), will pass directly over the trigger.
Use enough traps to make the campaign short and decisive. Leaving traps unset until the bait has been taken at least once reduces the chances of rats becoming trap-shy.
Using Poison Baits (Rodenticides):
Rodenticides are poisons that kill rodents. They are available as either non-anticoagulants or as anticoagulants. They can be purchased in hardware stores, feed stores, discount stores, garden centres, and other places where pesticides are sold.
The non-anticoagulants cause death either via the nervous system or via the release of calcium into the bloodstream. Anticoagulants cause death as a result of internal bleeding, which occurs as the animal’s blood loses its clotting ability and capillaries are destroyed.
The active ingredients are used at low levels, so bait shyness does not occur when using properly formulated baits. Most of these baits kill rats only after they are fed on for a number of days. The exceptions are brodifacoum or bromadiolone, which are capable of causing death after a single feeding.
However, rats do not die for several days. When anticoagulant baits are used, fresh bait must be made available to rats continuously as long as feeding occurs. Depending on the number of rats, this may require up to three weeks.
Bait Selection and Placement:
Baits are available in several types. Grain baits in a meal or pelleted form are often available in bulk or packaged in small plastic, cellophane, or paper packets.
These “place packs” keep baits fresh and make it easy to place baits into burrows, walls, or other locations.
Rats will readily gnaw into these bags to get at an acceptable bait. Block style baits are also very effective for most baiting situations. Use of tamper-resistant bait boxes provides a safeguard to people, pets, and other animals.
Place bait boxes next to the walls, with the openings close to the wall, or in other places where rats are active.
When possible, secure the bait station to a fixed object to prevent it from being moved. Label all bait boxes clearly with the words “Caution-Rat Bait” or another similar warning.
Sound and Electronic Devices:
Rats quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds. Ultrasonic sounds, those above the range of human hearing, have very limited use because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. Also, they quickly lose their intensity with distance.
There is little evidence that sound of any type will drive established rats from buildings or otherwise give adequate control.
Predators and Biological Control:
Although house cats, some dogs, and other predators kill rats, they do not usually give effective rat control. It is not uncommon to find rats living in very close association with dogs and cats. Rats frequently live beneath a doghouse and soon learn they can feed on the dog’s food when he is absent or asleep.
Many rat problems around homes can be related to the keeping of pets, on the other hand, some cats and dog breeds will reduce existing rat problems.
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