Things that go wrong
I’ve got purple spots on my leaves. What is it, and what do I do about it?
Purple spots are probably one of the leaf spots (eye spot, scorch or leaf blight) caused by fungus diseases. Spray weekly with an appropriate registered chemical. Follow label directions. Make sure the spray is properly covering the leaves. In future, start spraying a week or so after planting to protect the new leaves as they emerge.
My leaves are going purple. What’s the problem?
There are three likely causes of leaf purpling. The main one is spider mite damage, which can be confirmed by looking on the undersides of the leaves for the fine webbing and tiny mites. Lethal yellows disease results in an outer ring of purple leaves with small yellow leaves in the centre. Potassium and magnesium deficiencies produce a purpling of the outer edges of the leaves.
What is causing my fruit to split?
Rain damage is the most common cause of fruit splitting but powdery mildew disease can also cause the problem.
My fruit are going soft and rotten. What’s the problem?
There are three likely causes of fruit going soft and rotten. Several fungus diseases cause fruit rots, some producing white or grey mould on the surface. Queensland fruit fly may also cause soft spots on the fruit but damage is mainly confined to spring and summer when the fly is more active. The other probable cause is rain damage.
My fruit are not colouring properly. They are pale pink or whitish, soft and taste awful. What’s wrong?
The fruit are affected by a condition called albinism, which is generally associated with overcast weather and high nitrogen levels. Get a leaf or sap analysis done immediately to confirm the problem. While waiting for the results, do not apply any more nitrogen fertiliser.
What causes bumbly fruit (tucked in end, distorted shape)?
The most common cause of bumbly fruit is poor pollination due to lack of bees or wet weather or both. Boron or calcium deficiencies, frost damage and Rutherglen bug may also cause the same symptoms.
What causes the large open ‘frogmouth’ at the end of the fruit?
Rapid changes in temperature are the main cause. The plant has trouble adapting to the changes and growth is uneven, resulting in splitting and a gaping hole at the end of the fruit.
How do I stop birds from eating my fruit?
In small backyard and hobby patches try some form of bird netting, such as a stiff net like shadecloth, to prevent birds from getting tangled in it. When you want to pick, peel back the net to get at the plants. Netting is generally not viable for commercial patches. Birds may be beneficial by eating harmful insects and the damage may look worse than it is. However, if you believe you have a problem that needs action, contact the Queensland National Parks and Wildlife Service for advice.
I am using Euparen Multi but it doesn’t seem to be working. Is there anything better?
No. If Euparen Multi is not working, you are probably not applying it properly. You need to get very good coverage of leaves and fruit for Euparen Multi to work properly. Poor coverage could be due to worn nozzles on the sprayer or the wrong sprayer set up. Get your sprayer calibrated. You can do this yourself or hire a consultant.
My newly planted strawberry runners are growing poorly and dying. What’s wrong?
This sounds like establishment stress syndrome, which results from new runners being immature when dug. It is more likely in runners without leaves. Poor handling of runners before, during or just after planting accentuates the problem.
My established plants are wilting and dying. What’s the problem?
If established plants start to wilt and die, it is most likely caused by one of the crown rot diseases, which can be identified by brown discoloration inside the crown. A less common cause is damage from white grubs chewing the roots.
Can I mix my various spray chemicals together?
Each chemical should be applied separately, where possible. Strawberry fruit and leaves are highly susceptible to spray burn from chemicals mixed together. If you must mix chemicals together, follow the advice on the labels.
Varieties and planting
What varieties are best to plant?
New varieties both from the strawberry breeding component of the DPI&F’s Better Berries Program and from overseas become available to the strawberry industry each season. Varieties vary considerably in characteristics such as taste, size, colour, firmness, resistance to disease and rain damage, ease of harvest, cropping seasonality (early, mid, late) and yield.
Check with the strawberry runner growers regarding which varieties they recommend and trial a few hundred plants of varieites you have not grown before to assess their performance on your site and to develop your managment skills for that varitiety before planting large numbers. DPI&F extension staff are able to give advise on variety characteristics and can be contacted through the DPI&F Call Centre on 13 25 23.
When should I plant strawberries?
For Queensland’s coastal areas, planting is recommended between mid March and the first week of April. Runners planted in the second week of March or earlier tend to grow leaves and new runners rather than build up crowns. For Queensland’s colder inland areas, mid to late April seems best.
